For anyone who has ever dyed their hair, a dilemma springs up as your natural roots begin to creep back. Do you commit to the endless cycle of touch-ups, continuing the illusion of seamless color? Let your hair grow out and call it a day? A third option has emerged, one that embraces harsh contrasts. Meet the ghost root, an edgy trend that is proudly unnatural and visually striking.
“This technique is when your natural root color is left visible or intentionally lightened to create a sharp contrast with the rest of your hair,” explained Kirsten Stuke, a colorist at Suite Caroline in New York City. First seen on the Dries Van Noten fall 2020 runway, where stylist Sam McKnight bleached the tops of heads before adding an acidic green, fuchsia or red overlay, the aesthetic has been adopted by the likes of Rosalía, Billie Eilish and Rhian Teasdale of the band Wetleg over the last few years. It’s also become the go-to choice for women at salons looking for a style that’s decidedly cool and more under the radar.
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“It’s an interesting trend I’m seeing at the moment because it rejects perfection. Instead of a seamless blend, it embraces a hard line, turning natural grow-out into a fashion statement. It allows you to experiment with bleach or vivid colors without committing to a full head transformation,” Stuke said of the phenomena. Her clients come in asking for an array of shades, ranging from “natural” to eye searingly bright. Wherever they fall along on the spectrum, it’s clear that it’s a clear departure from the painstakingly blended highlights or custom-blended shades of brunette, blond or red that you’d expect women to request at a salon.
Interested? Conceivably this is something you could do yourself, simply by letting your hair grow out. But for those who want to dabble in bold color or bleach, a visit to the salon is a must. “Ask for a high contrast root that does not blend into the lengths and tell them you want a harsh line of demarcation that looks intentional,” Stuke advised.
Should you prefer a more subtle take on the trend, Rosalía’s delicate halo that melted into her naturally dark length is a great reference. This is also ideal for someone who wants to grow out their current color. “Warm blond can look interesting paired with deep brunette or raven ends. This is also an option if you want to transition into something lighter without damaging your hair,” Stuke said. Meanwhile, if drama is what you seek, then Eilish is a great example, with her wide swaths of color. This is also where you can have a bit of fun. Feel like making a bold, eye-catching statement? Acid green, fiery, red or neon tones will do the trick. Prefer something more ethereal? Fantasy pastels in soft blues, pinks or purples will achieve that effect.
Regardless of how unnatural or natural a client goes, Stuke loves this trend for its ease. “It can be customized and you have plenty of options. Grow your hair out and let it have rings. Keep adding dye and make it a half head of color. Make it your own.”